Ignition
[ ignition kit |
contactless |
programmable |
electronic ignition ]
High Energy Ignition Kit
I've installed a transistor assisted ignition kit
on my Datsun 1200. The kit is wired in series between the coil and the
points. The existing points are retained, but are now only used to switch
a small current, which is used to trigger the ignition kit. As a result,
the points will now virtually last the lifetime of your car. Since I
installed a DSE ignition kit, I've had the same set of points in my car
for more than 60 000 km.
the ignition kit
The ignition kit provides a much better spark, especially at higher revs,
and as a result, also provides a small increase in power and effeciency,
as well as making cold weather starts easier. The ignition kit also
provides dwell extension.
If you have had any previous experience putting together electronics kits,
then you shouldn't have any problems assembling the DSE ignition kit.
The kit includes a die-cast case, the PCB, all components, and all the
necessary wire. The die-cast case can then be installed under the bonnet.
I've just screwed mine in right next to the coil.
The ignition kit is available from
Dick Smith Electronics (catalogue # K3303)
and from
Jaycar Electronics (catalogue # KC5247).
Contactless Ignition
It is possible to remove the points altogether, and have a contactless
ignition system. This is possible if you replace the points with
a Hall-effect module. However, a Hall-effect module from Nissan or
an aftermarket Hall-effect sensor and rotor are rather expensive,
and probably not worth the cost.
Programmable Ignition
There is a programmable ignition kit available, which interfaces to the
DSE high energy ignition kit. This kit allows you to program in your
ignition advancement map (you can have two sets of ignition data - great
for dual-fuel cars).
The programmable ignition kit is available from
Jaycar Electronics (catalogue # KC5202).
Electronic Ignition
Arthur has installed an electronic ignition system
from a mid 80s 310 (American model). The 310 EI has two wires, a +ve and
-ve lead, which connect to a box on the distributer. He connected the
leads to the + and - sideof the coil.
The only hard part is modifying the original point adjustment plate in the
distributer in a manner which allows correct timing.
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